Crossing mountains and seas, encountering the dreamy light and shadow of the Southern Hemisphere - New Zealand self-guided tour guidebook

 

As the porthole at Hongqiao Airport gathered Shanghai’s April colors into the clouds, I knew a journey across two hemispheres had quietly begun. From a brief layover in Guangzhou to the deep‑blue night that congealed outside the window while crossing the ocean, this 17‑day trip to New Zealand landed in Auckland’s morning light with a touch of jet‑lagged anticipation.

The floor‑to‑ceiling windows at Quest on Eden reflected the street scene on Eden Crescent. April in the Southern Hemisphere dips into autumn, turning the air crisp and clear. In the days ahead: from the sulphur breath bursting in Waiotapu Thermal Wonderland to the tranquil shimmer of Lake Rotorua; from the fairy‑tale eaves at Hobbiton to the wave‑chewed folds of Pancake Rocks along the South Island’s West Coast; from Lake Matheson’s mirror of Aoraki/Mount Cook to the lone tree by Lake Wanaka and its millennial promise at sunset.........

This isn’t a hurried checklist, but a gentle confrontation with New Zealand—measuring its vastness by foot, collecting its colors by eye, and remembering with the heart every wind crossing the grasslands, every cloud falling upon the lake. Seventeen days, from the North Island to the South Island, from cities to wilds; those landscapes about to be met had already sprouted wings between the lines of the itinerary.

Now, it’s time for them to take me flying.

Photos first

2025‑04‑25_26 Shanghai (Hongqiao T2) – Guangzhou (transfer) – Auckland
2025‑04‑27 Auckland – Waiotapu Thermal Wonderland – Puarenga Park – Rotorua
2025‑04‑28 Rotorua — Hobbiton — Auckland — Christchurch
2025‑04‑29 Christchurch — Christchurch Central — Castle Hill — Motukiekie — Greymouth
2025‑04‑30 Greymouth — Motukiekie — Pancake Rocks — Coates St, Westport — Punakaiki
2025‑05‑01 Punakaiki — Glow Worm Dell — Hokitika Beach — Lake Ianthe Matahi Campsite — Hokitika Town — Lake Matheson (Mt Cook reflection)
2025‑05‑02 Haast Hwy (Bruce Bay) — Jackson Bay — Mount Aspiring National Park — Wanaka — Lake Wanaka
2025‑05‑03 Lake Wanaka — Queenstown (sunrise at The Camp Lake Hawea Holiday Park) — Arrow Junction Lookout — Queenstown Hobart St sunset
2025‑05‑04 Queenstown — Arrowtown — Queenstown
2025‑05‑05 Queenstown — Glenorchy — Skyline Gondola (Bob’s Peak panorama; night view)
2025‑05‑06 Queenstown — Dunedin — Moeraki Boulders sunset
2025‑05‑07 Oamaru — Lake Pukaki meadows — Lake Tekapo sunset
2025‑05‑08 Lake Tekapo — Church of the Good Shepherd — Christchurch — Auckland
2025‑05‑09 Auckland city walk — Mount Eden
2025‑05‑10_11 Auckland — Guangzhou (transfer) — Shanghai (Hongqiao T2)

Waiotapu Thermal Wonderland in the Rotorua region is one of the world’s “20 most surreal places.” Located ~30 km south of Rotorua within the Taupō Volcanic Zone, midway between Rotorua and Taupō. “Waiotapu” means “sacred waters” in Māori. Geothermal activity began 230,000 years ago; magma movement created diverse features. Drive ~20 minutes from Rotorua or 40 minutes north on SH‑5 from Taupō.

Hours: 08:30–16:30; last entry 15:00; closed Christmas Day.

Tickets: Adult NZD 45; child (under 15) NZD 15.

Main sights:
Champagne Pool: Iconic feature formed over 700 years ago; 65 m diameter, 62 m deep, 74°C surface. Constant CO₂ bubbling gives its name. Orange rim, blue‑green water—stunning contrast.

Lady Knox Geyser: Erupts daily at 10:15; up to 20 m; about an hour—triggered spectacle.

Devil’s Bath: Fluorescent yellow‑green acidic pool colored by sulfur and iron; ~14°C, pH ≈ 2; vegetation cannot survive—otherworldly.

Tracks: Three loop walks from 30–75 minutes.

Facilities: Large shop and café with Rotorua goods like mud masks.

Colors shift by time and weather—photography varies; fog adds atmosphere.

Waiotapu is also famous as the wedding‑photo site of Liu Shishi and Nicky Wu.

Christchurch International Airport is a major South Island hub ~12 km from the center (est. 1937). The open plaza and ample light suit catching shifting shadows; Māori carvings add local character. People on the move—farewells and arrivals—bring authentic emotion.

Sun gilds roofs; glass walls mirror sky; carved stone and long shadows cross—the quiet hum of travel fills frames.

End‑April Christchurch is an autumn painting—gold and orange trees, drifting leaves, solemn buildings, wires like music notes, guarding trees—cool, clean air to inhale.

Cardboard Cathedral

▼ CITY TOUR tram

Castle Hill in Canterbury along SH‑73 near Arthur’s Pass—limestone boulder fields atop former seabed risen to ~700 m and weather‑sculpted; snowy ranges and lakes ring it; clear‑day views to the Southern Alps and Aoraki/Mt Cook; famed for sunrise and sunset; LOTR and Narnia filmed here; Māori heritage as well.

Motukiekie Beach north of Greymouth—low tide reveals shelves studded with orange sea stars.

 

Punakaiki’s Pancake Rocks—layered limestone stacks eroded into “pancakes” and blowholes; formed from alternating marine and sand deposits 30–35 million years ago; uplift exposed limestone as mudstone eroded—dramatic spray at high tide.

Paparoa National Park protects rainforest and wildlife—signature NZ scenery.

Coates St, Westport—vast coast—quiet and grand; lighthouse solitary and steadfast; waves and wind primal and uncarved.

 

Glow Worm Dell: outdoor forest north of Hokitika on SH‑6—wide track; NZ glow‑worm larvae sparkle like a galaxy; best after dark—keep quiet and lights off.

Hokitika: “Jade City” with clock tower, old buildings, and studios—pounamu jewelry inspired by Māori motifs; goldsmiths, woodworkers, potters.

Hokitika Beach: pebble shore—white and green stones; famous driftwood “Hokitika” sign; Tasman sunsets spectacular; gulls perch on logs.

Lake Ianthe Matahi Campsite: forested freshwater lake—boating, trout fishing, swimming—great photo stop.

Bruce Bay: misty mornings, food trucks, warmth on a cool coast. Jackson Bay: rustic jetty, deep‑blue sea, gulls on lamp posts; casual life and inner ease.

Mount Aspiring NP (Te Wahipounamu): 3,555 km²; Mt Aspiring 3,033 m; ~100 glaciers, U‑valleys; rivers, waterfalls; silver beech forests; Routeburn gorge scenes; kiwi and kea.

Sheep graze; autumn trees blaze; red deer stride; lakes mirror sky—poetic.

Autumn Wanaka: golden filters, calm lake, snowy ridge lines; the lone tree glows; poplars, maples, birches turn—contrasting blue lake and white peaks.

Queenstown: jewel of nature and leisure; Crown Range S‑curve lookout; Lake Hayes mirrors ranges; Kelvin Heights corridors of gold and lake taxis; Cecil Rd sunrise; Kawarau Bridge bungy (NZD 200–260).

Brecon St; 37.1° incline; Bob’s Peak; 220° views; Stratosfare dining; hours 09:30–21:00; Luge 10:00–19:00; tickets: Gondola NZD 66; +3 Luge 89; +5 96; +6 99.

Clyde’s Clutha River: mist and gold sunlight; Oliver’s Restaurant from 1869 in “Only Cloud Knows”; Dunedin Station—“Gingerbread George” Troup; Kokonga basalt and Oamaru limestone; museum upstairs; busiest in gold‑rush days.

Koekohe Beach (Otago, East Coast): ~50 spherical boulders up to 2 m—formed as concretions in Paleocene mudstone ~60 million years ago and exposed by erosion; Māori legend: gourds from the wrecked canoe Araiteuru. Sunrise gilds boulders—mist creates dreamlike scenes.

Twizel–Omarama Rd: mirror lake, snowy ranges, golden trees; red buoys draw lines. Lake Pukaki—“turquoise milk lake” with pure light and classic S‑curve road foreground; colors shift with brightness; LOTR and Hobbit filmed nearby.

Family‑owned salmon farm, café, restaurant, fish shop, and fishing; Chinook (king) salmon in clean hydro canals—firmer and fresher than sea‑farmed. Sashimi, poke bowls, smoked platters; chowder, pies, grilled steaks; fillets, whole fish, sushi packs. Address: 2602 Twizel–Omarama Hwy, Glenbrook, Twizel 7999; hours 08:00–18:00 (summer), 09:00–17:00 (other seasons); free parking.

Lake Tekapo: 700 m alpine lake—clear blue, shrublands, autumn orange; views to Southern Alps. Braeview (1 Rankin Rise) managed by Book Tekapo—modern 3‑bed house for 6, free parking/Wi‑Fi, north‑facing lounge/terrace—sunlit lake and mountain vistas; near ski, hot springs, golf; close to Aoraki/Mt Cook; book 3 months ahead.

We saw an epic dawn: lake in indigo mist; eastern sky split honey‑orange then burned into layers of rouge, flame, and amber; clouds like silk; the lake turned emerald‑clear with gold chips of light; snowy peaks flared white—too bright to stare; reflections cold and clean; for a few minutes the whole sky blazed orange; even wooden rails and grass glowed; when the sun rose fully, the glow faded, yet a trace of gold‑red lingered on lake and peaks—photos couldn’t match the eye.

Walk from voco Auckland City Centre to North Wharf in light rain—streets gloss with reflections; modern lines and heritage roofs; cranes and masts haze into view; red phone boxes and teal harbor waters pop; urban density eases into waterfront cafés and open promenades; Viaduct Harbour’s lift bridge raises like scissors—a V against the sky—industrial grace with boats passing; water beads on metal—sun shards on wet steel—dynamic with the churn below.

Sky Tower’s needle under crisp blue; St Patrick’s Cathedral’s warm stone; Viaduct Harbour’s silver‑blue sea and long mast shadows—sun‑kissed frames everywhere.

International: Shanghai–Guangzhou–Auckland (CZ Boeing 787‑9) ~RMB 5,409 pp RT, 23 kg checked. Domestic: Auckland–Christchurch–Auckland (Jetstar) NZD 336 pp RT with 20 kg bag.

Group single‑entry via agency: ~RMB 1,095.50 pp (translation 350 + service 100 + fee 645.50; varies). Documents: passport, hukou, ID, itinerary, marriage cert, bank proof + employment letter, business license, bank statements (3–5 w RMB), property/car proof, 3.5×4.5 cm photo, application. DIY online is straightforward—follow steps. Notes: translate to English; accurate photos; confirm each step; RealMe to track; typical ~2 weeks. Photo requirements: taken within 6 months; grey background; 500 KB–3 MB; 900×1,200 to 2,250×3,000 px; JPG/JPEG; hair tied; glasses without glare.

NZDT (summer time): New Zealand is +5 hours from China; NZST (standard): +4 hours.

~NZD 1 ≈ RMB 4.2440 (variable). Carry ~NZD 500 cash; Visa/Master best; UnionPay often unsupported in small shops and some parking meters; big supermarkets don’t charge card fees; convenience stores/restaurants often 1–3%. Use chip insert or contactless (may incur fee). All‑currency cards charge in local NZD; dual‑currency cards may charge USD. PIN: first 4 digits. Recommended: CMB All‑Currency International Visa—charges in NZD.

Pre‑buy Spark NZ travel SIM (e.g., 15 days 20 GB). Airport options: Spark/Skinny/One NZ (e.g., Spark 10 GB NZD 42; One NZ 40 GB NZD 60). Or China carrier roaming ~RMB 25/day. NZ Wi‑Fi weaker than China—download Google offline maps for self‑drive.

Use bilingual paper or NZTD website/app. Fill 72 hours in advance; best within 24 hours of landing; resubmit if delayed. Declare truthfully to avoid penalties. Prohibited: honey products, dairy, meat, fresh produce, eggs; pseudoephedrine meds; many traditional medicines. If unsure, tick YES.

Meiya (AIG) “Global Travel” plans: broad coverage, medical, delays, property; strong assistance; excludes travel from/through Cuba, Iran, Syria, DPRK, Crimea, Russia, Ukraine, Belarus. Must purchase while resident in China (≥183 days).

Small camera drones can enter NZ without declaration. Tips: use AirShare to lodge flights; do not fly in national parks (DOC enforced); choose clear weather and open areas; avoid airports; max height 120 m; lodgements in managed zones may need admin approval—apply hours ahead; activate flight within 30 minutes before takeoff—green badge means valid.

Adapters (Type I), power strip; disposable underwear/socks; spare sheet; weather‑appropriate clothing—wind/rainproof shell with hood even in summer; umbrella or poncho; sturdy shoes (glacier hikes need waterproof, grippy); waterproof backpack; light bottle (tap water is drinkable; heated cup if you like hot water); a few common meds; sunglasses; bags; toothbrush and toiletries (many lodgings don’t provide); limit cigarettes; disposable slippers; neck pillow for long flights.

Auckland Airport ↔ SkyCity: NZD 20 pp; 05:00–22:00 every 30 minutes. Buy online; Intl Arrivals Gate 8 → Transport Hub Bay E; pay by card (UnionPay/Master/Visa); ~40 minutes non‑stop to SkyCity; for departures, navigate to “Horizon by SkyCity” or nearby store—Bay 7. Scan QR to board; luggage racks; upper deck seating.

Sky Tower (328 m) for 360° views + skywalk/bungy; St Matthew‑in‑the‑City with Gothic elements and stained glass; Auckland Art Gallery (NZ’s oldest/largest); Albert Park lawns and fountain; Queen Street dining—fresh seafood and NZ steak; Viaduct Harbour for food and yachts—busy by day, brilliant at night; Cyril Bassett VC Lookout for sunset over the harbor.